If you’re a golfer, you’ve either played in the Algarve or know someone who has. But I doubt the same can be said for Lisbon, and that’s a crying shame.
Just two and a half hours northwest of the Algarve sits Portugal’s vibrant capital. Bustling with life and colour, Lisbon is more often associated with romantic city breaks or lively stag weekends than with golf. But that might be about to change.
Golf Today was invited to experience the delights of Lisbon for ourselves, with a focus on the nearby PGA Aroeira, located just 40 minutes from the city centre.
Accommodation in Lisbon
Our base for the trip was the Crowne Plaza Caparica Lisbon, located about 30 minutes outside of the city, on the opposite side of the Tagus River, connected by the striking 25 de Abril Suspension Bridge, which bears a strong resemblance to San Francisco’s Golden Gate.
From the outside, the hotel isn’t exactly jaw-dropping, but the amenities more than make up for it. There’s an indoor and outdoor pool, a spa, gym, activities for kids, and a 9-hole pitch and putt course, which is ideal for groups looking for a knock around between rounds, or for families wanting to get the little ones involved without hitting the full-size courses.
My room was spacious, with a large balcony running the length of it, a bedroom, and a separate lounge area. There was plenty of room for me, my suitcase, and my golf clubs, not something you can always count on when travelling.
The breakfast buffet was straightforward but well done, with everything you need to start the day right. And throughout the stay, the staff were friendly, helpful, and attentive.
It’s not a place that’ll blow you away, but if your plan is to be out playing golf or exploring Lisbon most of the time, the Crowne Plaza makes for a solid, dependable base.
The city of Lisbon
Lisbon is the kind of city that sticks with you. Set on the banks of the Tagus River and just a stone’s throw from the Atlantic, it’s the westernmost capital in mainland Europe, and one of the oldest cities on the planet, older than London, Paris, and Rome, with roots that trace all the way back to the time of Ulysses, if the legends are to be believed. But while it wears its history well, Lisbon doesn’t live in the past. The city is full of colour and life, with yellow trams rattling through cobbled streets, sun bouncing off tiled buildings, and locals making time for coffee no matter the hour.
After a massive earthquake all but flattened it in 1755, Lisbon was rebuilt with vision. Grand squares, wide avenues and waterside promenades took the place of the old medieval maze, and today the blend of old and new is everywhere, from the impressive Praça do Comércio to the maze-like alleys of Alfama, where music drifts out from tucked-away bars.
Other than strolling the streets and absorbing your surroundings, there’s plenty to keep you occupied in the city. One activity definitely worth doing is an educational and thoroughly enjoyable (and relaxing) tram tour of the city. Upon boarding the rickety, iconic tram, many of which are vintage models dating back to the 1930s, you’re given earphones that plug into the seat in front of you. Once you’ve selected your language, the tram pulls away with a jolt and takes you through the winding backstreets of the ancient city, talking you through its rich and colourful history. I’d almost recommend doing this before anything else, just to get your bearings and gain a bit of context about the spirited capital you’re visiting.
Further out of Lisbon, beyond the Crowne Plaza where we stayed, we were treated to a winery tour at José Maria da Fonseca, also known as JM da Fonseca. With almost two centuries of existence and spanning over seven generations, it’s the oldest table wine company in Portugal. The family-owned business was founded in 1834 and is based in the village of Azeitão on the Setúbal Peninsula, with most of its production now exported internationally.
We enjoyed a picturesque tour of the grounds and the century-old wine cellar, which plays Gregorian chant music during the ageing process of some of its wines, apparently intended to create a unique and atmospheric environment as the wine matures. It made for a slightly surreal experience: standing in a dark wine cellar, no sign of modern life, church bells ringing in the distance, and chants echoing all around. It genuinely felt like we’d been transported back 150 years. That being said, I loved every minute of it, so if it’s something that tickles your fancy, it’s well worth going out of your way for.
In all, whether you’re in town for the food, the views, the golf (of course), or just a change of pace, Lisbon more than has you covered.
Golf in Lisbon
PGA Aroeira No. 1
Opened: 1973 | Architect: Frank Pennink
Tucked away in a peaceful pine forest just 30 minutes from the city, Aroeira No. 1 is a classic layout that feels a world away from urban life. Designed by the legendary Frank Pennink, this par-72 course has long been admired for its natural beauty and strategic challenge. It’s no surprise that early visitors dubbed it ‘the Wentworth of Lisbon’.
It’s a thinker’s course, where placement matters more than power. Tight tree-lined fairways and smartly positioned hazards demand accuracy, while a range of tee boxes keeps things playable for all levels.
The course has hosted some serious golf over the years, including the Portuguese Open (1996 & 1997) and the European Men’s Club Trophy (2013), and it’s been recently refreshed with upgraded bunkers, modern irrigation and more sustainable landscaping.
I thoroughly enjoyed the round from start to finish and, from the perspective of a golfing holiday-goer, I’ve got no complaints. The conditioning of the tees, fairways, and greens was excellent, and the course’s location ensured a real sense of serenity, because there’s nothing better than feeling a world away during a round of golf. The old-school, low-key clubhouse also deserves a mention, with its beautiful outdoor seating area overlooking the 18th, making for an ideal spot to relax with a post-round drink.
PGA Aroeira No. 2
Opened: 2000 | Architect: Donald Steel
Opened in 2000 and designed by renowned architect Donald Steel, Aroeira No. 2 brings a tougher edge to the resort, especially if you’re brave enough to play it from the back tees, where it stretches beyond 6,890 yards.
The course winds through the same striking woodland as its older sibling but throws in a few extra challenges for good measure: five expansive lakes, tricky fairway bunkers and a set of undulating greens that will keep you guessing all the way round.
Despite its championship pedigree, including hosting duties for the Ladies Open of Portugal and LET Qualifying School, Aroeira No. 2 is no bully, offering tee options for all players and rewarding smart strategy just as much as big hitting.
You can, however, tell PGA Aroeira No. 2 is the tougher of the two courses right from the off, with narrower tee shots and landing areas that aren’t quite as forgiving as its sister course, and trickier approaches into the greens that require a little more skill if you’re looking for birdie (or par!). During my visit, the upkeep wasn’t quite up to the standard of No. 1. That’s not to say the fairways and greens were poor, far from it, but it was clear the course hadn’t received the same level of attention, mainly along the cart paths and tee boxes. That didn’t take away from the experience, though; the layout still demanded thought and strategy, and I enjoyed every bit of it.
The likely reason for the slightly more relaxed upkeep is the major sustainability-focused refurbishment currently underway to mark the course’s 25th anniversary, following the same path No. 1 took in 2024.
The upgrades will include improvements to tee boxes, bunkers, fairways, greens, landscaping, and the course’s five signature lakes, all while keeping Donald Steel’s original layout and routing intact. Cart paths and bridges are also being refreshed, and like its sister course, No. 2 is getting new drought-resistant Bermuda grass and a high-efficiency irrigation system to reduce water usage, a thoughtful update that respects the course’s heritage while looking firmly to the future.
PGA Aroeira developments
PGA Aroeira Lisboa is also stepping things up with a new €200 million real estate development in partnership with Italian fashion brand Missoni, their first project in Portugal. Called Aroeira Collections by Missoni, the plan includes a 138-room hotel with one- and two-bedroom apartments right in the heart of the resort, nestled between the two championship courses. On top of that, there’ll be 40 two- and three-bedroom apartments, 24 properties ranging from two to four bedrooms, and 28 villas with three to five bedrooms.
The resort lifestyle is also getting an upgrade, with plans for pools, tennis and padel courts, a health centre, restaurant, kids’ play area and 24-hour reception. It’s all part of a bigger transformation that, along with the course developments, is turning PGA Aroeira into more than just a golf destination; it’s becoming somewhere you might want to stay a little longer than a week.
So what does this mean for the location? Well, for starters, it’s moving in the right direction to attract some of the Algarve crowd to PGA Aroeira. More importantly, it’s a serious investment in the region’s golfing market. Bear in mind, there are some spectacular courses within an hour’s drive of Lisbon, West Cliffs, Praia D’El Rey, Penha Longa, and Oitavos Dunes, to name a few, plus PGA Aroeira No. 1 and No. 2, which makes for a lineup that can genuinely compete with the likes of Monte Rei, Palmares, Quinta do Lago, and The Old Course down south.
Verdict
This new, high-end resort is set to be a real draw for those after something more than just a standard golf trip. With the added pull of Lisbon, its culture, character, and lively nightlife, it offers a full experience both on and off the course. And with a lineup of courses as enticing as the Algarve’s, it could well become a mainstay in the golfing holiday calendar.
