Machrihanish Dunes has been on my bucket list of golf courses for nearly a decade, and it was all thanks to a member at my childhood club called “Jimmy Eyebrows.” Now, clearly, his surname isn’t “Eyebrows” — though, come to think of it, I’m not sure what his surname is. But he earned the nickname thanks to his naturally wild and positively striking eyebrows.
It was Jimmy who first introduced me to Mach Dunes. Every Wednesday and Sunday on roll-up days, he would come into the pro shop and tell me about a “fabulous links course near Campbeltown,” built largely without machinery and utilising the natural lay of the land to create a raw and visually stunning golfing challenge. Once he had my attention — and he knew he had my attention — he began upping the ante.
Jimmy started bringing in laminated sheets of paper he’d printed at home, filled with information and pictures of the course for me to look at. He’d also walk me through the best ways to get there: flying up to Glasgow and then hopping on a “wee” twin otter plane to Campbeltown, or flying to Glasgow and taking the A83 down the Kintyre peninsula while admiring the dramatic scenery on offer.
From that day, I promised myself that if the opportunity to play Machrihanish Dunes ever arose, I’d take it. And, boy, was Jimmy right.
Travel
As mentioned above, there are a few ways to get to Campbeltown. The first and quickest is to fly into Glasgow International and catch one of the two Logan Air flights to Campbeltown Airport. The combined flying time from London is about 1h 45m, landing you on the course’s doorstep, close to the centre of Campbeltown and nearby hotels.
If you’re hiring a car on arrival, the drive from Glasgow Airport takes roughly 3.5 hours. Once you’re out of central Glasgow — which is pretty harmless — the road takes you past Loch Lomond and into the rolling Scottish countryside. It’s the kind of drive where it pays to be a passenger, with towering glens piercing the clouds, countless waterfalls cascading down hillsides, and vast lochs at every turn.
To break up the journey, you can stop in Inverary, a quaint waterside town about an hour or so from Campbeltown. Here, you can take in the picturesque backdrop and grab a coffee or a bite to eat before heading on.
Hospitality
The Ugadale Hotel played gracious host for the trip. Directly opposite the Atlantic Ocean and Machrihanish Golf Club — not to be confused with Mach Dunes — it boasts spectacular views of Northern Ireland to the southwest and the Inner Hebridean islands of Islay and Jura to the northeast. This longstanding, 22-room hotel was restored to its former glory by Machrihanish Dunes owners, Southworth Development, shortly after its acquisition. And while upgrades were made, it still retains a historical charm that befits its surroundings.
Alternatively, you could stay at The Royal Hotel in Campbeltown Harbour, just a short ten-minute drive from Mach Dunes. Like the Ugadale, The Royal was beautifully restored by Southworth after lying derelict for 20 years. This 23-room hotel is also home to the characterful Black Lion Pub and Harbourview Grille restaurant, which, like the Kintyre restaurant at the Ugadale, provides locally sourced produce and fine local whiskies.
Between April 1 and September 30, both accommodations offer a complimentary shuttle service to and from Machrihanish Dunes Golf Club as part of the golfing package, allowing you to focus solely on taking the experience in.
Golf
On the morning of our first round, it was hard not to feel excited, like a kid at Christmas waiting for their parents to finally wake up. The short drive from the Ugadale took us to the Machrihanish Dunes clubhouse, a petite cottage situated proudly beside the Scottish flag flying high in the wind.
Upon arrival, we entered the cosy embrace of the tiny clubhouse, which featured hickory clubs on the walls and no more than three or four tables for seating. It felt as if you were visiting family who just happened to have a spectacular links course in their backyard. You could sit contentedly with a cup of homemade soup, engaging in friendly conversation and watch the day go by without a care in the world. However, I was itching to get out and play.
Labelled the “World’s most natural course,” Machrihanish Dunes opened in 2009 and is the work of world-famous course architect David McLay Kidd. Stretching 7,082 yards from the back tees, the stunningly raw links course unfurls along the sea, evoking the era when Old Tom Morris and Willie Campbell crafted the neighbouring links of Machrihanish Golf Club — originally laid out in 1879 — and Islay’s Machrie Golf Links, visible from Mach Dunes.
Guided by the natural contours and protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), the course respectfully honours the fragile coastal environment and endangered species. Only seven of its 259 acres were disturbed during construction, with just the tees and greens reshaped. The fairways remain as they were found — but mowed, obviously — with natural mounds towering above even the tallest golfers.
Playing Mach Dunes felt like stepping back in time. The layout, undulations, and scenery are so perfectly in touch with the land and surroundings that it felt like golf as it was meant to be played. Three clubs up into the wind, two clubs down with the wind, setting your target line 40 yards right of the pin, and pulling shots out of the bag that you didn’t even know needed to exist.
Each shot required strategic thought, but even good shots could leave you a 30-foot, triple-breaker putt that plays three feet uphill before sharply dropping down to the pin. It was crazy golf, exciting golf and downright “how the hell am I supposed to play this shot” golf.
What makes it special, though, is how the rawness of the course is complemented by immaculate greens and fairways. The greens were firm yet receptive, rolled true and deceptively fast, and if you went offline or had a rush of blood, you’d likely be putting from the same distance on the way back.
From start to finish, I couldn’t help but play with a beaming smile — even during the inevitable blobs that could happen in the blink of an eye. It’s a course that has an aura about it, a characteristic that immediately builds a connection between the player and the land. You could play it a hundred times over and never get bored — a true sign of a great course. You can take a closer look at the impressive setup in my video review below.
Development
Exciting times lie ahead for Machrihanish Dunes, with plans to build a brand-new championship course next to the original and hopes of eventually hosting professional tournaments.
As with Mach Dunes, these plans intersect with SSSI land in some areas, so the same diligence has been applied to align with all necessary precautions. The new course will span 439.91 acres, with plans for 12 cottages, a three-story hotel with tennis and paddle courts, and a new clubhouse equipped with a luxury spa.
The new development aims to make Machrihanish a must-visit destination for golfers worldwide, with opportunities to play the championship course, Mach Dunes, Machrihanish Golf Club, and Dunaverty, located nearby in Southend.
Initially, I was concerned that the ambitious plan might detract from the area’s charm. After all, the quaint and idyllic nature of Machrihanish Dunes plays a big part in its identity. However, following in-depth conversations with the Southworth Development team, it’s clear that they fully intend to preserve the sensitive aspects that make Machrihanish unique.
The development plan has been thoughtfully crafted, with close cooperation from locals, who are wholeheartedly on board, and the Scottish Government (NatureScot) to respect the land and create a resort that harmonises with its natural surroundings.
Once completed, the resort will not only impress but will also benefit the local economy, creating a buzz in peak season and providing ongoing employment through construction and other roles.
Verdict
My time in Machrihanish exceeded all the expectations Jimmy Eyebrows had set. From the friendly locals and staff to the postcard landscapes and sensational golf course, it has it all. And, with new development plans to create a world-class resort on the Kintyre peninsula, it’s poised to get even better.
Machrihanish Dunes was a bucket list course for me, but I can now confidently recommend that it should be on every golfer’s list. Suffice it to say, that although it was my first time playing it, it most certainly won’t be my last.
